As consumers scaled back during a financially unstable 2009, a new aesthetic in fine jewelry began to take hold: more sparkle, fewer stones. Even the wealthiest of customers toned down big looks to avoid the appearance of conspicuous consumption. Savvy designers responded by turning diminutive diamonds into lustrous looks.

The soft neutrals and muted metallics of Spring ’10 make backing off from bling a necessity. According to Lilly Berelovich, president of Fashion Snoops, “It’s going to be a very clean season,” filled with quality fabrication and classic details. The dressier interpretations of “business casual”—in crisp cottons and gentle jerseys—will call for understated accessories. In its new book “Gem Visions 2010,” ENLIGHTENED™–Swarovski Elements notes that, “Flamboyance and excessive opulence [will] give way to quiet, discreet beauty, so that new classics will emerge from economic adversity.”

Regardless of fiscal fluctuations, the simplicity trend promises to continue through 2010. Shoppers will be scouting for:

• Halos of micropavé hovering around a center stone;
• Differently shaped gems combined to create one big rock look;
• Gleaming surfaces with subtle gem accents;
• Matte finishes that add additional sparkle to stones;
• Chains with extra spacing between diamond details;
• Pavé as its own design element rather than an accent;
• Filigree and delicate shapes that create the illusion of more gems; and
• Elaborate designs studded with strategically placed sparkle.  JQ